Cruising to Lake Huron

 July 17, 2024

        It took us a few days to regain our east coast time zone, but we managed to get underway and up to Frankfort on July 1st.   We had reserved a slip at the municipal marina but about an hour out, the marina called and said that they had to give our slip to a disabled boat and they had no room for us.  We’re striking out on marinas this year!  We called a nearby marina and got a good slip with them.  We were a bit miffed at the municipal marina and I’m sure they will regret it.  The disabled boat was abandoned when we got there.  No one trying to fix it, no one on board, everyone had left and the boat ( an old rusty fishing rig) was just sitting taking up space.  Their loss, our gain.  We met some nice people at Jacobsons Marina Resort.  

Parade started with an antique hearse-🤪

Quite a turnout by the local women

Love these horses

The one and only piece of farm equipment 

       We watched the Frankfort Fourth of July Parade - not near the number of tractors and marching bands as Manitowoc had last year- and walked through the carnival and listened to some of the bands. Later in the  afternoon there was a boat parade that passed behind our boat.

Pretty little antique Chris-Craft

Nice flag!

        Katie and Dean, friends from our Texas Mariners Cruising Association(TMCA) came to visit the following day and brought lots of charts of the North Channel and Georgian Bay and had dinner at the Cabbage Shed with us.  We haven’t seen Dean in years.  It was good to sit and catch up with what he’s been up to.  

Dean, Katie, Clare, and Bob

      Due to some gorgeous weather, we left the morning of the 5th for Leland.  This is a good jumping off spot if you’re headed to Beaver Island which we were.  Last time in Leland it was the very end of the boating season.  The town was very quiet and the marina was only half full.  This time the town was full of tourists and the marina was at capacity.  It’s a very nice marina but they allow anyone who wants to walk the docks.   We were constantly fishing dock lines from the water where they had been accidentally kicked off the dock.  You had to wind your way through crowds to get to the restrooms.  It was a zoo.  We’ll think twice before going there during the season again.

Bob kicking the light

     We left on July 7 for Beaver Island.   Again we had beautiful weather and calm seas though a bit chilly.  We chose a slip at the North Municipal Marina.  It was bought by the city recently.  It was obviously not a DNR marina.  The facilities were lacking and the docks were in need of some repair.  

       We settled in and got our bikes off to take a reconnaissance ride around St.James, the village at the north end of the island.  We rode down to the Beaver Island Harbor light  so Bob could kick it then back to the town proper.  St. James has a population of 226.  

     Beaver Island was once home to a community of Mormons lead by James Strang.  Strang declared himself King of this community.  He even changed the name of the post office to St. James after himself.  He was murdered by disgruntled followers .  The name of the town has changed from Beaver Island to Beaver Harbor and back again to St. James.

     Beaver Island is 55.8 sq.miles and is the largest island in Lake Michigan.  The total population of  eager Island is 616.  The island is 13  miles long and 94% of the island contain large parcels of state land including Beaver Island State Wildlife Research Area.  At the most southern end of the island Beaver Head Lighthouse can be found.   Bob and I decided to see if we could ride to the lighthouse for a visit.

     We went from store to store looking for a free tourist map but none were to be had….except the waterproof canoe map the could double as a placemat for $17.99.😂😱   We finally rode to a gas station and bought a map for $5- for about forty miles of roads!!!   With water bottles in hand we started off for an all afternoon adventure.   Seventeen miles is nothing for us to ride but 12 of that was on gravel - I hate riding on gravel.   Needless to say, we made it to the lighthouse long before closing time oh but wait!  The sign says closed for painting.  You’ve got to be kidding!

It will look nice when they finish

      They were not kidding.  We sat and drank our water and watched the workmen painting the tower.  Now we had the ride home to look forward to.   We had traveled south on the Kings Highway the turned east onto Hannigan Rd.  Did I tell you that the gaeltacht(Irish)fishermen from other communities on Lake Michigan drove Strang’s followers from the island and retook their homes.  For years afterward conversations were still carried on in Ulster Irish.  Now we would continue on Hannigan Rd. Up the west side of the island.  This gravel road would bring us to the Big Birch reported to be the oldest birch tree in Michigan and the Big Rock as well as Tara’s Meadow.  We did stop at the Big Birch but we were pretty tired of riding on gravel and wanted to find some nice smooth tarmac and our boat.  In total we rode over 35 miles - most of it on bumpy gravel roads.  No speed contests were won.

Biggest birch I’ve ever seen

      After all that hard work we decided to go out for dinner. After showers and a cool drink we headed out.  You guessed it, back on the bikes for a ride into town.  We had a nice dinner at The Shamrock and went to bed early.  

        The following day we left for Mackinaw City - this is not the famous island but a city at one end of the Mighty Mac (Mackinac Bridge which does not go to the island !).  We tried out a new municipal marina and we’re pleasantly surprised.  Strait States Harbor is by far the best Michigan DNR marina we’ve stayed in.   At $1.48/ ft.  you really can’t go wrong.   We rode our bikes around parts of town we hadn’t been to before and rode to the grocery store.  OMG don’t complain about food prices!!  Grapes were $5.99/ lb., sprite was $3.99/ 2 liters…..needless to say we did very, very little shopping here.  

The biggest hotdog I’ve ever seen- is everything bigger in MI?

Mighty Mac (Mackinac Bridge) at night

       Our next stop was one of our favorite places on the Great Lakes, De Tour Village.  DeTour is a village of about 263 souls.  It is situated at the confluence of the St. Mary’s River( Lake Superior) and Lake Huron and less than a days boat ride to Lake Michigan.  A very centrally located spot.  The North Channel begins just a few miles to the east and beyond that is Georgian Bay.   We love this community for many reasons but mostly for the friendly people.  Last year John threw us the keys to his Jeep and said to take it to Hessel for the boat show.  This year Dave gave us his truck so we could get to Cedarville for some special marine lightbulbs.  Then there is Desi.  She owns and runs the best restaurant in town, The Mainsail.  We have eaten and drunk there more times than I can count.  The first visit she snapped back at Bob when he asked if her soup was really homemade.  I’ve loved her ever since.  

      We took our usual slip and spent a couple of days connecting with friends and eating Desi’s excellent whitefish.  We waited out some rainy weather and celebrated our 45th anniversary there.  I’m not sure if we’ll ever be back there by boat, but we will be back, somehow.

Dave’s loaner truck-thanks Dave!

Anniversary dinner with Desi

Sign in The Mainsail

Goodbye DeTour Village

       Our next leap is up the St. Mary’s River to Sault St. Marie.   This is an interesting trip because all the ships coming off Lake Superior have to come down the river and through the DeTour Passage.  The laker and footer watching is the best here.  We only passed one ship heading south and were  never over taken by any.   When we got to The Soo we pulled into George Kemp Maria to get fuel and a pump out then we crossed the river to the Roberta Bondar Marina where we had reserved a slip.   This marina is in Canada so a call to the Canadian Border Services Agency to check in.  “Q” flag is up and we easily obtain our cruising permit.  Down with the “Q” and up with our courtesy flag.  We are now free to leave our vessel.

“Q” flag down, courtesy flag up! We are official.

     We have been to the Soo numerous times in the past two years so sightseeing is kind of a moot point.  They do have a very nice bike trail along the edge of the river of which we take full advantage.  We will also do a big grocery shop here in the Metro grocery.  It’s like going to Food Lion in New Bern.  

     We have a couple of dock mates that are quite interested in heading up to Lake Superior.  They inform us that the Canadian Lock is closed for the season for repairs and we will have to use the big U.S. locks if we wish to go up.  We’ve managed to avoid this our last three trips up but I guess we need to put on our big boy pants and go for it.   Hopefully all will go well and I’ll write you from Lake Superior in our next blog.

Till next time- Bob and Clare

Cruises Interruptis

 July 1, 2024

Good morning!   We are back from our California adventure and moving Carolina to Frankfort, MI - one of our favorite stops.  

     We left Carolina in Ludington and flew to Sacramento to meet family for an impromptu reunion.   We arrive on June 16th and stayed with Bob’s sister.  The following day we drove to Lake Shasta about 3  hours north.  We had rented a “patio boat” for the duration of our stay and picked it up at Bridge Bay Marina.(Do we ever get away from water and boats?)

      The pickup was easy and after loading luggage and food we were on our way….at least we thought we were.   About 30 minutes out of the marina the low oil alarm went off.  We shut her down and luckily still had cell service to call the marina.  They promised to send someone out.  We drifted for a bit then had to start her up or go on the rocky shore.   We put-putted into Silverthorn Marina and tied up there.  Within 3 minutes Jason arrived with a jug of oil and fixed us up.   Off again to the cabin.  

Flexie, (named for the flex seal on the pontoons)

     The cabin at Shasta is very remote.  There are only fire trails into the vicinity and the trip by boat would take us 45 minute in the patio boat.  We had an ice chest full of beer and we’re in no rush to get there, so we had a leisurely cruise.  We expected there to be folks at the cabin but when we arrived it was still shuddered and locked.  Time for another beer while we waited for a key to arrive.

      

     Bob’s niece was the first on the scene.  We had carried our luggage, etc.  up and the porch and once we could get in, began to process of unshuttering the windows.  Each window (7 total) has two shutters then a 2x12 board with 4 carriage bolts across the outside.  Hunters and vandals have broken in in the past so the family has taken precautions. Once the cabin is open the fun can begin!

       Bob’s niece Jenny and family have rented a small house boat to live on and have brought their Ski Nautique Air for water sports.  Next Bob’ brother, Dale arrives in his Sanger.  Another boat for play.  He was followed shortly by his daughter, Lena, and her family on a big houseboat.  They were also towing their Mastercraft ski boat.  The count is now up to 12, with 2 houseboats and three ski/surf boats but we’re not done yet!!

       Dinner that night was with Jenny and Chris on their houseboat.  It was Mexican night and the margaritas were excellent.  We all retired early-ish because the next day more family would be arriving. Ben (our son) and his wife and our two grandkids arrive tomorrow as well as Bob’s sisters Cindy and Nancy and Robbie.  That will bring the count to 19.

      The next day Bob and I took the patio boat into the government dock at Jones Valley to pickup the kids.  It was a perfect rendezvous and we loaded luggage and more food onto the boat and headed back to the cabin.   Later in the day Dale went back to the dock to pickup the 3 sisters.  It was a jolly crew and we were already having a great time swimming and floating  off our beach.

The whole crew

     The next fives days were spent knee boarding, skiing, surfing and riding the hydrofoil surfboard.  Finnegan and Ellie both went kneeboarding.  Finnegan was a bit more successful.  We forgot to tell Ellie to let go when she fell off and in her words,” I went stomach skiing!”. 🤣. We made trips to the headwaters and swam in the coves.  We had camp fires to make s’mores…..some morning ones and some evening ones.  We did lots of star gazing and swam till our fingers were puckered like prunes.  We all left with various shades of Shasta-clay red imbedded in our shoes and shorts and towels.  It was a typical Shasta adventure.  Now we all need a vacation from our vacation.

     Bob and I stay a day beyond everyone else to close up the cabin.  All those shutters and boards had to be put back in place.  The hot water heater was taken down, the water tanks pumped full and everything in the cabin covered n plastic.( the bats still manage to get in).  It was a half- day project and then we were off to turn our boat and head back to Sacrament to fly home.

     Bob decided that we needed to ride the USS Badger back across Lake Michigan from Wisconsin to Ludington, MI.  On weekends they have a sailing at 1:30am from Manitowoc, WI to Ludington.  He booked us and even booked a “stateroom”.  When we landed in Milwaukee we recovered the truck and then drove  89 miles north to Manitowoc to meet the Badger.   We had lots of time to kill so we found the Fat Seagull Bar that was still serving food and ordered a late dinner.  The two young men beside us at the bar asked where we were from and the night was begun.  We chatted with Zack and Doug for a couple of hours.   It was finally time for the ferry so off we went to the loading ramp.

     We walked on while a staff member drove our truck on.  We retrieved the key to our stateroom from the purser and headed there to put our backpacks down before exploring the ship.  There was a movie theater, a museum, coffee shop, and children’s play area.  We headed out on deck to watch our departure.  We had watched the Badger leave numerous times last year while we were docked in Manitowoc.  Now we’d have a new perspective.

      Shortly after our explore, we headed off to bed.  It was a very short sleep.  They crew came by around 5:45 to wake us to prepare for arrival and docking.  We wandered out to the foredeck with coffee in hand to watch as we sailed into Ludington.   

      Being a National Historic Landmark, the USS Badger is a bit less than modern.  She is the last coal-fired passenger vessel operating on the Great Lakes.   She can carry 180 cars and 620 passengers.  She was originally used to transport rail cars between the two sides of the lake all year long.  Now she runs seasonally from mid-June till early October.

       When she comes into port, there are always spectators watching.  If you’re real lucky you’ll be watching on her starboard side and be able to see/hear her anchor drop.  She drops her anchor while underway and “club hauls” around her anchor and slowly backs into her slip.  It’s exciting to watch and even more exciting when you’re standing just above the anchor rode as it deploys.  We could see Carolina from the Badger as we swung around to the dock.  Home again, home again!

      We arrived back around 7:15am and went directly to bed.  It had been a very long trip from California and we were fighting time changes and lack of sleep.   We eventually arose and started a shopping list and gathering dirty laundry.  Now it was time to get back to the business of enjoying our cruising lifestyle.

 Next stop  will be Frankfort for the 4th of July and then onto Beaver Island for a few days.

     I’ll write more soon.  Be safe and stay well until we meet again!