Thursday, August 7, 2025

Clayton is the place to be!

 August 4, 2025

      We had a nice cruise up to Clayton.  Weather was warm but beautiful for boating.  Everyone else agreed.  There’s lots of traffic of all kinds on the St. Lawerence.  Our Marina in Clayton was literally across the street from the Museum.  We got in around 2pm on July 21st.  We used our CBP Roam app to check in.  Amazingly we were cleared within 5 minutes, no inspection, no questions asked.  We were relieved.  Next on our agenda was to walk to the Antique Boat Museum and find out about visiting.  Since they closed at 5 and it was already 3:30, we opted to wait till the next day to visit.  Last time we were here, we were awaiting the arrival of our first grandchild.  The kids lived in Binghamton, NY which was a short drive away.  The museum was flooded from rain storms and some of the exhibits were not open.  This time the weather was perfect and everything was open!  

      Later that evening we rode to the grocery and wine store.  The grocery store was very expensive and not very satisfying.  We did not provision in the US before we left wanting to spend our money in Canada.  Well, we have had to go without many things we enjoy at home but we’ve had a chance to try many new things.  Being back in the USA I was looking forward to finding some favorites.  Well, guess again. We now drink Tim Hortons coffee- which my friend Monica introduced me to years ago.  We eat plain pasta - no whole wheat to be found, and they have no pizza shells just pre-made pizzas in the freezer section.  Next year I’m bringing a supply of all the things I couldn’t find this year!

      We had a marvelous time at the museum.  There are some stunning boats here.  If you’ve not been I highly recommend you make a visit.  These pictures should speak for themselves.



Beautiful sailing and rowing skiffs

Some old, some new!  The birch bark is my favorite.

Bob had a hydroplane but not near as fancy as this one!

Gadfly- a commuter boat, made for going to and from your island home.

An amphicar- always a crowd pleaser!  We saw one in the water on Lake Erie

Such a sweet color.


Cute utility vessel

The Captain with an antique airboat

All that beautiful wood!

     The following day, my sister, Leslie, came to visit from Rochester.  She had a part for my sink to bring up and she added a few home baked goodies.  We had a nice visit and went to lunch at a wonderful restaurant called Belle’s.  There was a line to get in but it moved quickly and we even got seating on the back porch over looking the river.  She left mid afternoon and we retreated to the boat for some siesta time.

We couldn’t resist this giant truck.

     During our visit to the museum we found out that the following weekend was the Antique Boat Show and Auction.  You know who decided that we would have to come back for that. We also found out about the Thousand Island Hot Air Balloon Festival - here in Clayton this weekend.  We were destined to stay a bit longer.   We spoke to Jennifer the marina manager and got an extension on our stay.

      Friday, July 25th we tuned up our bikes, checked the maps and headed out to the Coyote Moon Vineyard.   The GPS said it was 5 miles and not too hilly.  The day was hot so we took our time and tried to enjoy the ride.  Unfortunately most of it was out First Line Rd.  Which is also Highway 3!   New Yorkers drive fast.  We had a shoulder the whole way but still felt exposed.  Needless to say, we made it to the vineyard in time to listen to a local band play and see them air up the balloons.  We also met a nice family from Potsdam, NY.   There daughter Emma was a graduate of Boston University preparing to move to Houston to be with her boyfriend.   We had lots to talk about and left her with our numbers if she needed more information about Houston.  We couldn’t stay for the true “glow” because riding our bikes in semi-dark on that road would have been suicide.  The owner of the vineyard told us it was a terribly dangerous road and encouraged us to be most careful.  He also told us about the classic car rally happening there the next day.  Guess we’re staying a little longer.

Flying high

They had a huge crowd for the “Glow”

The Winery Coyote Moon donated the space for the balloon festival

The crowd kept getting bigger as the balloons fired up

Live music too!

     On Saturday we rode back to the vineyard to see the cars.  It was a nice show, not as crowded as the balloon glow and they were selling wine slushies!  The day was hot again and the slushies did the trick. The show was good with some new and interesting cars.  The ride home was uneventful and we got back in time to prep for leaving the following day.

Crowd was not near as big for the car show but still lots of fun

     We cruised out into the Thousand Islands and checked out some of the beautiful homes along the shores.  We ended at Grindstone Island in a very quiet and secluded anchorage. As we dropped the anchor we could hear the loons calling.   By late afternoon and had seen a mama and two loon chicks and trumpeter swans with their five cignets.  Their were also osprey hunting down in the end of the bay.  We spent two nights here.  We managed to wash the decks of the boat and do a few other boat chores while relaxing in between.

Thousand Island Bridge

A laker passing on its way to Montreal 

        On Tuesday we went further east to the Thousand Island Club and took a slip.  This is located on Wesley Island across the St.Lawrence River from Alexandria Bay.  We had hoped to be on the other side in Alexandria Bay but it was not to be.  The Marina was very well protected and had facilities and a nice restaurant but the only grocery was across the river.  We got directions on how to access the grocery stores dinghy dock and proceeded to put our dinghy in the water.  It was and interesting boat ride back to the dinghy dock.  We went way up Muddy Creek until we found a disreputable looking dock that was built for small power boats, not a dinghy.  The climb out was a challenge - especially avoiding all the spiders!  We walked up the hill to the store and managed to find almost everything we needed.  Then back to the boat to unload and explore the area.  We’re a stones throw from Boldt Castle and the Boldt Boathouse.  

       The next day was cloudy and cool - a perfect day to visit the castle.  We donned our long pants and sweatshirts and headed off to Boldt Castle.  We bought tickets for both the castle and the boathouse.  We took the dinghy to the castle visitor docks and tied up.  We knew there was a shuttle to the boathouse if the weather turned and figured we’d use it if we needed.   

The ballroom

Main entryway 

The castle


Stained glass rotunda in the main hall

The power house for Heart Island
They used a steam generator

The history of Boldt Castle is quite interesting.  George Boldt was the owner of the Waldorf Astoria in NYC.  He was a multimillionaire.  He bought Hart Island in the Thousand Islands with the intent to build a Rhine- like castle for his wife Louise.  Work began in 1900 with the help of  over 300 workers.  He changed the spelling of the name of the island to Heart Island to reflect his enduring love for Louise.  In 1904 with the castle and other structures one-third completed work was abruptly stopped.   Louise had taken ill and died and George no longer had to desire to continue the project.  He could not imagine living in his dream castle without the love of his life.

     The castle sat unfinished and exposed to the elements for 73 years before the Thousand Island Bridge Authority acquired the property in 1977.  Since its acquisition, the TIBA has been slowly renovating and completing George’s dream castle.

Clare at Alster Tower



Castle from the dinghy

    The Boldt Boathouse  was built in 1903.  Mr. Boldt owned numerous properties in the Thousand Islands and used his many boats to travel between them.  Some were rental properties, others were working farms where fruits and vegetables were grown for his hotels and his family table.  The yacht house housed not only small “commuter” boats but also Boldt’s house boat, La Duchesse, now on exhibit at the Clayton Antique Boat Museum.

Boldt Yacht House

Circular tower with reception rooms

There was also a large caretakers residence

   Now it was time to head back to Clayton for the Antique Boat Show and Auction.  We said our goodbyes to to Thousand Island Club and headed backup river to Clayton  I’ll save the boat show and beyond for our next blog.  Till then, have a wonderful August, stay cool and enjoy your friends and neighbors.



Friday, July 18, 2025

Canadian Shield and locking down!

 June 30, 2025


      We have left Buckhorn.  We had such a great time there with our newly made friends.  Unfortunately they needed to head home which put us moving in different directions.  We wished them all safe travels until we meet again.

Purchases in Buckhorn



Bob at the Buckhorn Damn spillway

In the Buckhorn Lock, going down

       We have been working our way down toward Lake Ontario since the Kirkfield Lift Lock.  This means we float in high in the lock and then descend to the lower level of the river/canal/lake beyond.  The waterway connects 60 lakes and spans 386 kilometers from Georgian Bay(Lake Huron) to Lake Ontario.

       Our next stop would be in Stony Lake.  Scotty Mc Kee had told us about Juniper Island while we were in Bobcaygeon and we decided we’d like a few days away from the maddening crowd. To get to stony Lake we had to lock down through Buckhorn, Lovesick Lake and Burleigh Locks.  Buckhorn was a breeze.  Between Buckhorn and Lovesick Lake the wind seemed to arrive in full force.  Lovesick,#30, is the smallest drop (or lift depending on direction) setting us down only 3.5 feet.  It was built in 1882-1887 on an isolated island and is still only accessible by water.  It was very windy at the lock and luckily for us, Amy was great at tying and holding boats while we waited for our green light.  The lockmaster said it’s always windy at Lovesick so they’re very good at controlling wind-blown boats.  Every lockmaster we have met has been welcoming, helpful, and positive.

        Next was Burleigh Falls Lock#28.   We were lowered 24 ft. here .  Burleigh was built around the same time as Lovesick.  It was originally a flight lock but that caused flooding of  islands upstream so it was replaced with a single lock-in 1967.  That eliminated lock #29.  I didn’t miss one, it just wasn’t there no matter how hard we looked! 🤣  Burleigh Falls Lock lowers us into Stony Lake.  The name suits it perfectly.   Everywhere you look there are the tops of large rocks just peeking above the water.  Our charts were very important in helping us to safely traverse the lake to Juniper Island.  This lake is in “Cottage Country”.   This is a portion of the shield that is dotted with lakes and rivers outlined with small, modest, to overly large and elegant “cottages”.  Our Canadian friends tell us if its on a body of water- it’s a cottage, if it’s on a ski slope it’s a chalet and if it’s in the woods it’s a cabin or a camp.  Always leaning new nomenclature.

Exiting the Burleigh Lock

Spillway from damn

      We arrived and dropped our anchor in 20 feet of water.  It was a pretty spot but this is a holiday weekend. We were joined by many day boaters who came to swim.  We watched boats on the main lake pulling skiers, and tubers.  And then there are the fishermen. It’s a very busy lake but come 6:30pm everyone leaves and it’s very quiet.   We spent two restful nights here.  I managed to clean floors and dust, Bob worked on some small projects and we just relaxed.

Bob and I in Scotty’s  Cove on Stony Lake

       On Monday, June 30th, we pulled our anchor up and headed for Lakefield Lock.  We had it on good authority  that they had power and SHOWERS!  Yes we have been showering but on the boat using our water.  We’re getting low so we’re trying to conserve.  No potable water at this stop but they will take our trash and we can walk to the grocery.

       We’ll Lakefield was a nice stop.  Friendly lock keeper and eventually friendly neighbors.  When we arrived there was one power pedestal available.  We docked beside it and plugged in.  We use a combiner to plug our 50amp cord into two 30 amp outlets.  The two boats in front of us had done the same.  When the forth boat came and docked they were a bit put out that all the power was taken.  We suffered dirty looks from them that evening.  It was a hot day but it did cool off nicely in the evening.  They fled early the next day looking for power, I’m sure.  Our new neighbors were much nicer and informative.  Frank, on the Le Boat, was wonderful.  He hails from Montreal and has cruised this section of the TSW and the Rideau Canal numerous times.  He gave us lots of advice and listed must see places for us.  We spent our two days at Lakefield Lock then headed toward the Peterborough Lift Lock.  To get toPeterborough we had to pass through a flight of five locks.  Each lock is unique and it’s always fun to talk with the young people who work the locks in the summer.

       The Peterborough Lift lock is a National Historic Site.  It was originally built between 1896 and 1904.  (I sure as hell hope they’ve refurbished it since then!)  It is a hydraulic lift lock that lowers or raises you and your boat 65ft.  There are two”tubs” of water 120’x32’ perched on top of hydraulic steel rams.  Not unlike the Kirkfield Lift Lock but bigger.

Carolina waiting to be lowered in the Peterborough Lift Lock

Below the lock- you can see the tub above us

We spent the night at the top of the lock on the wall

         We arrived at Peterborough mid afternoon  and tied up to the upper wall.  Kind of a spooky spot.  You’re looking over the tub full of water into the drop of 65ft.   Something nightmares are made from.  We were the only boat and had a very quiet night.  The next morning we had a leisurely breakfast and got underway around 10am.   We were only going through the Peterborough and the the Ashburnham locks  today.  Next stop the PeterboroughMarina to pickup water, do laundry and have power.

        We are having good luck.  The marina laundry is free and no one else was using it!  We did three loads of laundry and ate lunch during the wash/dry cycles at the on site restaurant.  We filled our water tanks and still had time to wander around the park and find the LCBO.

    The following day we decided to head toward Hastings Lock #18 and stay a night on their wall.  Hastings is a small town of 1200 right along the edge of the lock.  We walked around this cute little town, visited the grocery, and got ice cream for our lunch.  The Kawartha Dairy ice cream is quite a thing here in Ontario.  The actual dairy is in Bobcaygeon but we didn’t visit while we were there.  Kawartha is the lake district of Ontario - also called cottage country.  Within this region there are 14 connected lakes - part of the Trent Severn- but beyond them, they estimate there are 130 more lakes.

      After Hastings we traveled down a flight of three locks at Healy Falls.  These locks will take us down 72 ft. Locks 16 and 17 will each drop us down 25ft. Lock 15 will take us the remaining 22ft. to the Trent River.  Crowe Bay will be our final lock for the day before stopping at Campbellford for the night.

Huge Toony in park at Campbellford

Carolina docked across from the park

      We arrived in Campbellford around 2pm.  That had a sign posted with “Carolina” where we were to dock.  Nancy the dock manager was there to greet us.  She was training Olivia and helped us tie up.  Unfortunately because we are a big boat they put us on the opposite side of the river from the facilities. We had between 1/4-1/2 mile to walk or ride our bikes to the restrooms and showers.  Not ideal.  We stayed our first night there on the far side of the “marina”.  The next morning we moved to the other side so we’d be nearer the showers and restrooms.  As we pulled in the dockhand who had okayed the move over ran up and asked if we could tuck in real close to the boat in front because 5 boats had called and wanted on our side but all together.  We got up close to the boat in front of us and tied off.   We then walked to”Be My Guest Family Restaurant” for breakfast.  We had a fantastic meal.  Bob had French toast and I had a gyro omelette.  We shared and it was delicious.  Our waitress was outstanding and the place was packed by the time we left.  We took a short walkabout and stopped in at the Campbellford Hardware and Mercantile.   This was a real treat.  The Indian owner has packed more products into limited space then I have ever seen AND there was a downstairs too!  We spent a half hour just marveling at all the things we have searched for that he had right there on his shelves.  He wanted to discuss the U.S. and wether he should move there to improve his earnings.  We told him to wait 3.5 years.  Before we finished making our purchases we were gifted bottles of water and each blessed by our new Indian friend.

Bob in the hardware mercantile store


       We walked back to Carolina just in time to be asked to move up again.  This time it was a problem.  Our power cord would not reach from the front receptacle to the pedestal.  We’d have to switch to the rear receptacle.   That’s kind of a pain bot doable.  We moved up again and retired and repowered  Carolina.  We were waiting for a 32ft boat to come in behind us.  Well a less than honorable boat pulled up- 32foot with and additional 4 ft. swim platform  and a dinghy lift adding an additional 4 ft.   Then he has to nerve to tell us we’re taking up too much room and we should move up some more.  It was not a pretty scene.  A true Ugly American.  Needless to say, we did not move.  It kind of spoiled Campbellford for us though. 

    Later that afternoon we decided to ride to the previous lock then up to the next lock.  We wanted to see Healy and Ranney Falls.  The ride to Ranney Falls was nice and we had a coolish  breeze on a very hot (94) day. We explored the Ranney Falls suspension bridge and rode out to the damn.  From Ranney onto Healy was a different ball of wax.  We had a map but it didn’t actually take us to the falls .  There were many,  many hills, some of which I walked up.  We finally put the falls into our phone gps and we were well past them on our way back to Campbellford.  We kept going and missed out on Healy Falls. By the time we got home it was going on 7pm.  We figured we rode about 15 miles.  

Off in the brush near Ranney Falls

Ranney Falls

Suspension Bridge by Ranney Falls

       We planned on leaving and going to Percy #8 but soon realized it would take us all of an hour to get there.  The plan was changed and we struck out for Frankford.  The first locks of the day were the Ranney Falls flight - each lock drops us 24ft., a total of 48ft. down.   These locks were built between 1910 and 1915 to enable passage around the falls.

      Next we had 3 locks in quick succession and then a long leg to lock 7 Glen Ross and finally on to Frankford.  Glen Ross called on to Frankford and informed us that they had no room at the pedestals but we could stay on the lower wall for the night.  We agreed and locked down to the lower wall.  Nathen, the lock operator, helped us tie up and was a wealth of information.  We decided we’d walk to town and have dinner out.   After reading numerous reviews, we chose Dimitri’s Pizzeria and Restaurant.  It was an excellent choice.  The food was delicious and the service outstanding.

        We spent 2 days in Frankford, one night on the lower wall and one night on the upper wall.  We left on Thursday for Trenton - civilization of sorts.  Trenton is a city of about 22,000 people.  There is a RCAF (Royal Canadian Air Force) base here and also the National Air Force Museum of Canada.  We planned on staying 3 days but extended our stay to 6 days due to the weather and lack of space at the Kingston Marina. Since we were there it only seemed natural for us to visit the Air Force Museum.  It was a short bike ride but the weather was very hot. 

Inside the C130e

Field of planes


     We spent a couple of hours touring the C130e, and other static displays of a variety of different planes. Unfortunately the museum had no snack bar to get lunch or a cold drink .  We opted to leave and find somewhere to get some water. We ended up riding back to the boat and showering.  We spent some of this time washing the bugs off our boat, cleaning the stratoglass , changing out the water pump and doing a major provisioning.  There was a Metro grocery about 1/4 mile away.  We ate out one night at a lovely Thai restaurant called Thai Sushi.  The food was excellent as was the service.  The laundry at the marina was free so I did three loads.  It was a very productive 6 days.  

   On our last day here we rode our bikes down to Carrying Place and the Murray Canal.  This canal is a quick way out to Lake Ontario from Trenton (Quinte West).  We will not be going this way preferring to stay in the protected waters of Quinte Bay.



Bob with his antique bike

Clare with her trusty bike

On the shores of Quinte Bay

Trenton Clock Tower built in 1888

    On July 16th we left Trenton early (7:20) and headed east on the bay towards Kingston.  This was a 55plus nautical mile trip and would take us about 6.5 hours.  The scenery was beautiful and the weather, though hot, was great for this trip.  We got to the Conferderation Basin Marina about 2:30.  There were to very able dockhands waiting for us at our slip.  This is the first time I didn’t have to retire the lines - they were that good!  The marina is a labyrinth of docks going this way and that.  We probably walk about 1/4-1/2 mile on the docks before we get to land.  I truly fear getting lost and not being able to find Carolina. This is another expensive marina but the high temps demand power for AC.  They keep promising a cold front and finally last night(Thursday, July17)  it arrived.  Today we’re wearing long sleeved shirts and still feeling a bit chilly.  We’ll stay here till the 20th when we will leave for Clayton, NY and check in back in the USA.  We hope that there are no problems with coming home but we’ll wait and see.


Confederation Arch

CPR train in Confederation Park

     While in Kingston we managed to take a hop-on, hop-off tour of the city.  This gave us an opportunity to decide which of the sight we wanted to visit more extensively.  What an interesting city this turned out to be.  Now we’re sorry that we have so little time here.  After the tour,  we walked back to two of the nearby sights.   Our first stop was the Kingston Historic Pumphouse.  It was erected in 1851.  In 1834 Kingston had a cholera outbreak .  Cholera is most frequently caused by polluted water.  Then in 1840 there was a Great Fire consuming over 40 buildings in the downtown area. In 1842 the town decided to form a Water Works to address the water needs of the growing community and respond to health concerns and the need for water to fight fires.  They used a walking beam steam engine to pump water from Lake Ontario to the city.  It was a very interesting museum that also included a traveling exhibit on dinosaurs.

     Next we walked next door to the Great Lakes Museum.  We really just wanted to see the S.S.Keewatin.  This is the last remaining Edwardian-era passenger liner in the world.  It traveled in the Great Lakes from between Port Arthur/Fort William on Lake Superior and from Port McNicoll on Georgian Bay.  We took the engine room tour.  We were the only people on the tour so all our questions were answered and then some.  She ran on a quadruple extension steam engine powered by four coal-fired scotch boilers.  She had a single screw that was 15 feet in diameter.  Her top speed was 16 knots.  

    After all this touristing we were exhausted and headed back to the boat for a quite evening.  We still had  About 1.5 hours left on our hop-on, hop-off ticket so we made plans to see Fort Henry the following day. 

    We boarded the bus for a ride out to the fort then stood inline for our tickets.  Unfortunately we were quite disappointed in the fort.  There were few signs to explain what we were looking at and even less direction on what to see.  We spent an hour wandering around the interior then decided to move on to more interesting sights.  We caught a bus back to the marina and had lunch.

    After lunch we got on our bikes and rode out to the Kingston Penitentiary.  We took the brief tour because we we feeling shy of paying for entrance then being disappointed again.  We first stopped at the Kingston Pen Museum, which was quite interesting with lots of artifacts to view and read about.  We then crossed the road to the actual penitentiary.  Our tour guide, Jason, was very good and had lots to tell us in our forty-five minute tour.  We really enjoyed the Pen but wouldn’t want to stay there for too long!  Again we’d worn ourselves out and we were being kicked out of the marina the next morning.  Our slip was reserved by someone else.  There’s a story behind this which I will tell you now….

        We were having a conversation with our dockmate John.  We told we’d be leaving and he said but of course.  We asked why this was expected and he began to explain the long and sordid details of the Sunday morning boat comings and goings.  It seems that in 2024 contractors were hired to do  maintenance on the LaSalle Causeway bascule bridge.  They neglected to secure the counter weight properly and the historic bridge was damaged beyond repair.  They have since put in a temporary modular bridge which is only opened on Sundays for marine traffic.  This bridge leads to the Rideau Canal entrance so all boats entering or exiting the canal must do so on Sunday causing a huge boat traffic jam.  We decided it was best to leave.  We’d also have to rethink our plans for the Rideau to meet the bridge schedule.

     Sunday dawned cool and breezy.  We filled our water tanks and dropped our lines headed for Portsmouth Olympic Harbour just 40 minutes south.  We pulled in and got a pump out for two lovely young ladies who had been very well trained.  They also assisted us dock on their wall and were very helpful   We walked up to the facility to checkout where the 1976 Summer Olympics sailing races were held.   I’m sure it was a wonderful facility but it has not been repurposed and most of the large building is sitting vacant and collecting spiders.  We walked up to a Tim Hortons to purchased a pound of coffee for breakfast and on the way back stopped in a local pub.  This is a very sleepy area.  Not much available for boaters without transportation but we didn’t need to be entertained.  

     The following day we left for Clayton, NY - Carolina would be back in the USA for the first time since July of 2024.  We were a bit nervous about checking back in.  We ate all the veggies and fruit we could hold and threw away the rest.  We arrived in Clayton mid-afternoon and used CBP ROAM to check back in.  You fill out their forms with all your information then wait for them either to call you for a video conference or approve your entry via the app.  We didn’t have long to wait.  We were approved for entry within 15 minutes of sending our form in….and no CG inspection!!!  This was more than we had hoped.

     Why Clayton you ask?   Clayton is the US gateway to the Thousand Islands.  It is also home to the Antique Boat Museum.  We’ve been here before, by car.  Last time here it was flooding and some buildings were closed.  This time the weather is beautiful and everything is open.  We’ll spend a morning perusing these carefully rehabilitated old wooden boats.  We also opted for a ride in a Garwood 3 cockpit classic.  




    





Clayton is the place to be!

 August 4, 2025       We had a nice cruise up to Clayton.  Weather was warm but beautiful for boating.  Everyone else agreed.  There’s lots ...